Why Are Earwigs So Hard To Kill?

February 1, 2012 by Dr. Doug Asher  
Filed under Gardening

Earwigs are not some special bug that cannot be killed. They do have wings but seldom fly and they are not super fast so they escape panicked homeowners with rolled up newspapers. Still, earwigs can be very frustrating in that you kill one in your home and an hour later up pops another. This sort of thing occurs all summer long and no matter how you spray or use home remedies the earwig keeps coming.

While some insects lay thousands of eggs and that is how their colony size gets so large, earwigs usually only produce one generation per year 50 to 60 eggs at a time. While the earwig is harmless to you and I they can be formidable on other bugs. The female actually protects her nest until they eggs hatch which is quite rare in the insect world. The earwig pincers are a source of fear for most but they are not even powerful enough to cause but a tiny prick. Earwigs do posses fully developed wings but rarely fly. Stories go that the earwig seeks out human ears to crawl in and nest but there is very little truth to the myth. While is does happen that earwigs and other bugs have entered into sleeping peoples ears, it is not something these insects do on purpose in order to lay eggs and bore into your brain.

Earwigs do best in damp situations such as leaf litter or mulch. Home owners oblige this six legged creature by adding more mulch every year on top of old and by constant watering of plants and landscaping that is close to the home. This yearly practice allows the population of the earwig to grow with each new season. Since earwigs survive the winters by hibernating the adults and new born combine to increase the numbers every twelve months. This build up continues until finally the numbers explode and it seems like ‘over night’ a home can be over run.

The drier the area the less you’ll have earwigs and this is why inside populations can’t survive very long. Earwigs are constantly on the move looking for food and it’s usually an opportune crack or open door that earwigs use to get in. They often find their way to the bathroom of a house because of the lure of life giving water. There is no express strategy of the earwig to infest your home. It is mostly the wandering tendencies that eventually lead the earwig inside. As populations get bigger and food competition is tougher or if things dry out a bit you’ll have earwigs on the move looking for a better situation which often leads them inside.

The earwig is not the most agile insect but they are very good at finding ways into a home. Small cracks in the foundation or gaps in doors and windows more than enough for an earwig to enter. Front door thresholds and sliding glass doors are in my experience the most used entry of an earwig. Not only because these areas are difficult to seal but also because we encourage earwigs to be in the general area at all times. Our welcome mats provide perfect cover while our decorative statues or planters do the same. The dampness that collects at the bottom of these objects is a ‘welcome mat’ of their own for the earwig and since it is so close to the main entries it is only logical that earwigs come in these areas far more often. So it is not that the earwig has built up some great resistance to insecticides or that they are extremely tough and can’t be killed. It is however that we the homeowner provide everything they need and continue this long enough until the problem needs major treatments to bring it back down to a acceptable level.

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3 Reasons To Prevent Termites

January 31, 2012 by Dr. Doug Asher  
Filed under Gardening

If termites are blind and shun light just how do they find their way into your home? I mean they live under ground and can’t follow already made pathways but actually have to make tunnels in which to move. Soil particle by soil particle they span out and as if by random and they still find wood to eat. Wood has no odor that attracts them (termites don’t have a nose either) but still homes across America get infested with termites every year to the tune of billions of dollars in treatment and repair costs. There is some research going on right now that suggests termite foraging is not so random and is in fact quite deliberate. While that has yet to come to a full conclusion I can tell you that there are three main reasons that termites will latch onto a structure and blindly or not they’ll search out and eat every fiber of wood they can get their teeth into.

The number one reason that they invade our homes is moisture, these little guys send out special workers just to find moisture, the number one thing, they need to survive. And when they find it, they bring their entire family to make full use of that moisture. Termites will exploit that leaky spigot or hose and even an a/c drip line. When a termite breaks the surface or the soil or wood that they are eating, they always seal up the break with a mud tunnel. Mud tunnels are made of saliva, termite fecal matter and soil, it prevents moisture loss and protects the termites from losing that precious liquid giving them full access to what they need.

Repairing or preventing moisture should be a priority. With termites searching for this precious commodity, it is in your best interest to prevent them from looking at your home and seeing the welcome dinner sign. Fixing or repairing the leaking spigot or even moving that a/c drip line away from your house is the best bet for preventing these guys.

The second thing to eliminate or repair to prevent termites is removing any wood to ground contact. You might have to contact a professional handyman to do this but spending a couple hundred dollars now, can possibly prevent thousands of dollars later. Wood soaks up moisture and thus you just gave the termite food and water and he’s going to make full use of that and take up residence eating you out of your home.

The remedies are simple and only the altering of siding may incur the use of a handyman or qualified person. Other than that it’s as easy as removing the wood or digging out the siding and you essentially take away that problem or entry point for the termite. I suggest putting the wood away from the home and storing it up off the ground for added security. Rocks instead of mulch and soil are much better near the home as it allows better drainage and makes spotting any termite activity that much easier.

For your a/c drip line you simply need to reroute the constant water source away from the home. By adding a small extension to the pvc pipe you can run this water almost anywhere. Many people take advantage of the ‘free’ water and run their pipe to a plant or tree where the water will be put to good use. Regardless of where it goes, AWAY FROM THE HOME is the ultimate goal. These simple steps are no 100% guarantee that termites won’t strike your home but they are at least the easiest ways to eliminate the 3 most conducive ways termites invade.

Bothersome Fruit Flies

January 30, 2012 by Dr. Doug Asher  
Filed under Gardening

Welcome to the fruit fly, those annoying bugs that measure about 1/8 of an inch in length and that includes their wings. The fruit flies comprise ofseveral different species belonging to the genusDrosophila.Fruit flies are also known as pomace flies or vinegar flies and annoyances.These flies are found throughout the world in homes, food processing plants, warehouses, grocery stores, wineries, restaurants and other structures. The way to identify the fruit fly is its eyes, which are red in color with the rest of the body and thorax being tan, and the abdomen is darker in color. This fly is usually confused with the Phorid fly, which is similar in its colors except for that beady red eye. Without a good magnifying glass, fruit flies would merely fall into the category ofsmall flies.

The fruit fly is often mistaken for just another gnat or even the phorid fly but this is a mistake to give such a cavalier ID. The best way to identify this pest is by its red eyes which can easily be seen with just a little magnification. Knowing any pest ID is important so you know how to treat and where to look and this especially important fotr the fruit fly.

If you are infested with fruit flies,all potential breeding areas must be located and eliminated. Unless the breeding areas are removed or cleaned, the problem will continue no matter how often insecticides are applied to control the adults. Finding the source of attraction and breeding can be very challenging and you will need a bit of patience and persistence. These areas can include seldom cleaned garbage cans, drains, a forgotten vegetable, a spill underneath the fridge and even a tiny amount of debris under a table leg or appliance leg.

To eliminate fruit flies you must find and eliminate all breeding sites. Simply pouring bleach down the drain rarely works so you should actually clean the area with a brush or cleaning product that removes such scum. Insecticides are all but useless in the fight against the fly. You may kill some adults but unless you cut the life cycle you’ll never get ahead. It may be difficult to find all the sources and you’ll definitely need to be persistent. Rotting or fermenting organic material is the key and this can be just about anywhere. Drains are classic, old vegetables or a forgotten spill no matter how small can be enough to sustain quite a large number of fruit flies. This fly is not limited to walking and will fly in from places like dumpsters, compost piles or the like.

Once your done with sanitation you could spray a pyrethrum aerosol to help alleviate the remaining adults. One common trick used is the funnel in a jar. By constructing a funnel out of paper or other material simply pour wine, cider, vinegar or other attractant into a jar and place the funnel with small side down in the the container. The material will lure them down the funnel but there they will be trapped as they search the glass for a way out but the small opening will be rarely found. This effective but simple trap will catch the adults and they will eventually drown or die in the glass.

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Florida “Sugar Ants”

October 30, 2011 by Dr. Doug Asher  
Filed under Gardening

Piss ants are an annoyance pest in North America and are very prevalent. These insistent ants are very hard to see and are also called “sugar ants”. Many species have been mistaken for a sugar ant or a sweet ant. Unfortunately to the untrained eye, they all seem to look the same.

Some common species include Argentine Ants, Odorous House Ants, Pharaoh Ants, Fire Ants, Carpenter Ants, Thief Ants, Acrobat Ants, Citronella Ants, and Small Honey Ants. These ants love to invade homes, apartments, condos or any structure that has food and/or available for nest sites. To maintain simplicity in this article, we will refer to both Pharaoh and Pavement ants as “sugar ants.”

It is very common to misidentify an ant as a “sugar ant” or a “sweet ant” because they have been seen eating some type of food which is sugary or sweet. Since most ants will vary their diet from carbohydrate to protein to fat, it is not uncommon to see any ant species in about any kind of food

To prevent and control a sugar ant invasion in your home you will need to follow these simple steps to be rid of them, Keep your kitchen sink clean and dry, wipe your counter tops with bleach every night, Sweep and mop your kitchen floor with bleach every night, (Mainly during the summer), Vacuum the floors and spaces where food is consumer to avoid the sugar ant invasion, Change your garbage bags every night and take the trash out on a regular basis. These simple and easy steps can control or prevent the sugar ants from giving you a headache.

The most common baits used to eliminate ants are called sweet baits. Boric acid, also called borax, is the most common ingredient found in these baits, and most ants are susceptible to it. Borax is a mineral that is mined in California, and is refined into all manners of ant bait systems. Borax is non-toxic to humans, unless ingested or inhaled in large amounts which I do not recommend. Borax is very useful in eliminating ant colonies as it is a real slow poison, giving the ant’s time to take it back to the colony and disperse it with the others.

My experience with sugar ants has made me a little more aware of the different baits out on the market. I highly recommend Terro brand baits. They are super effective and can eliminate a colony fairly quickly. The best part about Terro is that you can find it in many hardware stores and even Lowes. I do recommend hiring a professional; most offer a guarantee and will do the legwork for you. They also work with you on how to eliminate these pests and give you tips on how to prevent them in the future.

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Phorid Flies

October 28, 2011 by Dr. Doug Asher  
Filed under Gardening

Let us start out with the Scuttle Fly it really is, just a nickname for the Phorid Fly. Scuttle Flies are a family of small, hump-backed flies resembling fruit flies. Phorid Flies, similar to fruit flies and they are found throughout the world, about 1/8 inches in length and are tan in color. Scuttle flies however do not have red eyes but do have a noticeable ‘hump’ on their backs. They feed mainly on decaying organic material and lay eggs in such suitable materials.

Phorid Flies can often be identified by their escape habit of running rapidly across a surface rather than flying, giving them that nickname the scuttle fly. They are a diverse and successful group of insects.

Coffin Flies are another name for the Phorid fly. because they are known to be found in mortuaries and mausoleums. Also a serious threat in hospitals since females will lay their eggs in open wounds. The female will lay up to 40 eggs in a 12 hour period. Approximately 24 hours later they will hatch. Usually the larvae will feed up to 18 days then crawl to a drier place to pupate. The entire cycle can be done in as little as 14 days but typically takes a month.

Controlling the Phorid Fly can be difficult just like the fruit fly, it requires, patience and persistence to be rid of them. As with the fruit fly you will need to investigate for the source.

Controlling the scuttle fly can be difficult just like the fruit fly; it requires diligence and tenacity to be rid of them. As with the fruit fly you will need to look for the source. Scuttle fly larvae can only live in moist organic matter. A favorite spot to check for them is the drains. If adult flies are found in the drains that’s a good sign they are there. If so the drain must be thoroughly cleaned. A good scrubby brush to remove the residue in the drain and some bleach poured into the drain should help but may not be 100% affective unless you remove all the organic matter. Another helpful thing to do is to remove the pea trap and clean it.

The Phorid Fly loves the same places as the fruit fly; the best measure to be rid of them is a thorough cleaning of affected areas. Places that they love to dine are drains, garbage cans, spills under the refrigerator and decaying vegetables. You know that onion that was in the back of the pantry you forgot is probably a culprit. The fruit fly trap is also a good way to eliminate the adults. Just put a small amount of red wine or apple cider vinegar into a shallow dish, cover it with plastic wrap, and then poke a hole into it.

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Billy Bretherton a.k.a. Billy the Exterminator

October 27, 2011 by Dr. Doug Asher  
Filed under Gardening

Billy Bretherton, otherwise known as Billy the Exterminator is an expert in the field of pest control and is a huge proponent of natural methods of control.

Billy started his career in the field of Entomology in the United States Air Force. However, his intent at the time was to be in law enforcement or special ops. After being honorably discharged he spent 5 years with a leading industry entomologist. He also has completed 2 years of training with Purdue University. He currently holds a Master’s Certificate for Termite Control from LSU.

Billy is also an advocate of natural methods of pest control, this started mainly after an accidental poisoning. After some violent puking, Billy has stated that now he knows what it’s like to be poisoned.

You can also call Billy the family man; he works with his family, friends and employees on his show Billy the Exterminator, a spinoff of his Dirty Jobs appearance. His mother handles dispatch and his brother Ricky working jobs on and off camera. Billy’s wife was seen on season one, but has resigned from the show.

Many of Billy’s family, friends and other employee’s regularly join him on the show. His brother Ricky also works with Billy and has become highly allergic to bees and wasps due to being stung so many times by them. Billy’s Mother Donnie also works as a Dispatcher for Vexcon, but rarely attends the jobs being performed. Billy’s wife Mary, no longer appears on the show since resigning in the first season.

His company Vexcon, is also one of the only companies in Louisiana to handle all kinds of animal control. He has been seen trapping foxes, catching enormous snakes, and squirrels in your fireplace. Billy certainly is one unique individual with a lot to learn from.

Fire Ant Elimination!

October 26, 2011 by Dr. Doug Asher  
Filed under Gardening

Meet the fire ant, that little bugger who packs a wallop. The fire ant belongs to a variety of stinging ants with over 280 species worldwide. They have several names that include the ginger ant or tropical fire ants. The majority of fire ants found in the southwestern and southern U.S. are actually invaders, a non-native species that are the red imported fire ant (RIFA).

The RIFA was accidentally introduced into the states via a South American cargo ship that docked in Mobile, Alabama, in the 1930’s. The RIFA is estimated to cost an estimated $5 billion dollars annually on medical treatment, damage and in pest control of RIFA infested areas. They also cause an estimated $750 million dollars in damage to agriculture, this includes veterinarian bills, crop damages and livestock losses. It is estimated that between 30-60% of people living in fire ant infested areas are stung each year.

The RIFA was accidentally introduced into the states via a South American cargo ship that came into port in Mobile, Alabama, in the 1930’s. The RIFA is estimated to cost $5 billion dollars annually on medical treatment, damage and in pest control of RIFA infested areas. They also cause an estimated $750 million dollars in damage to agriculture, this includes veterinarian bills, crop damages and livestock losses. It is estimated that between 30-60% of people living in fire ant infested areas are stung each year.

Unlike other ants, which bite and spray acid into the wound, fire ants will bite only to get a grip and then sting with their abdomen to inject a toxic alkaloid venom called solenopsin. It can be quite a painful sting to a human, usually a burning sensation hence the name “fire ant”. If you are sensitive to the fire ant sting, it can be deadly. The really neat thing about the venom is that it is both insecticidal and an antibiotic. Researchers believe that ant nurse workers will spray their young to protect them from microorganisms.

Eliminating the fire ant colony is not as easy as it looks. Fire ants nest in the dirt, often near moist areas such as river banks, pond edges, watered lawns and even highway edges. The nest will usually be invisible as it can be under objects such as timber, logs, bricks, rocks, paver stones and more. If there is no cover for the nest, you will see dome shaped mounds in open spaces, mainly in fields, parks and lawns.

To get rid of them you will need to locate their main base of operation, their nest so to speak. But be very careful they are aggressive and will attack you; you may have to contact a professional to help you eradicate these ants if you are not confident about eradicating them on your own. One way to eradicate them is the Texas 2 step organic method of fire ant control; developed by Texas A&M University it provides suggestions for less toxic ways to remove the ants. A professional may use 3 different ways of eliminating the pest. Baiting, mound drenching and broadcasting of contact pesticides may be used.

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The Unstoppable Earwig

May 11, 2010 by Dr. Doug Asher  
Filed under Gardening

In the insect world so many bugs depend on their defenses to survive. Earwigs actually have few such armaments but still can be the most frustrating insect that keeps coming back time after time. Many home owners fear the earwig and show no mercy when they spot one in their home. Shots of Raid, fly swatters and shoes go flying when the hapless earwig makes its way across a bathroom mat or is found at the front door. The problem is that with each one killed the beleaguered resident finds another and another on a constant basis and in some situations it gets way out of control and people can see many earwigs every single day of the season.

While some insects lay thousands of eggs and that is how their colony size gets so large, earwigs usually only produce one generation per year 50 to 60 eggs at a time. While the earwig is harmless to you and I they can be formidable on other bugs. The female actually protects her nest until they eggs hatch which is quite rare in the insect world. The earwig pincers are a source of fear for most but they are not even powerful enough to cause but a tiny prick. Earwigs do posses fully developed wings but rarely fly. Stories go that the earwig seeks out human ears to crawl in and nest but there is very little truth to the myth. While is does happen that earwigs and other bugs have entered into sleeping peoples ears, it is not something these insects do on purpose in order to lay eggs and bore into your brain.

Earwigs live in the woods just fine but our homes offer the perfect place for them to thrive as well. No amount of prevention is enough to completely thwart the earwig and in reality having a balanced population of this and other bugs is actually a good thing. Earwigs are mostly scavengers and help recycle debris around our house. The problem of population growth is not due to extreme egg laying but because we give such conducive conditions to the development of the large numbers that eventually invade our homes. When we constantly water and re-mulch and put decorative statues and planters on the ground we complete the needs list of the earwig. Moisture is critical for their survival and being nocturnal they find not only the safety and darkness under our landscape but the dampness that collects makes for the perfect nest. Over time these conditions allow the earwig to explode in numbers and that is when we have such persistent problems in our homes.

The drier the area the less you’ll have earwigs and this is why inside populations can’t survive very long. Earwigs are constantly on the move looking for food and it’s usually an opportune crack or open door that earwigs use to get in. They often find their way to the bathroom of a house because of the lure of life giving water. There is no express strategy of the earwig to infest your home. It is mostly the wandering tendencies that eventually lead the earwig inside. As populations get bigger and food competition is tougher or if things dry out a bit you’ll have earwigs on the move looking for a better situation which often leads them inside.

The earwig is not the most agile insect but they are very good at finding ways into a home. Small cracks in the foundation or gaps in doors and windows more than enough for an earwig to enter. Front door thresholds and sliding glass doors are in my experience the most used entry of an earwig. Not only because these areas are difficult to seal but also because we encourage earwigs to be in the general area at all times. Our welcome mats provide perfect cover while our decorative statues or planters do the same. The dampness that collects at the bottom of these objects is a ‘welcome mat’ of their own for the earwig and since it is so close to the main entries it is only logical that earwigs come in these areas far more often. So it is not that the earwig has built up some great resistance to insecticides or that they are extremely tough and can’t be killed. It is however that we the homeowner provide everything they need and continue this long enough until the problem needs major treatments to bring it back down to a acceptable level.

About the Author: